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Propane pressures, tanks, regulators, etc  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Mar 4th, 2019 03:06 pm
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nice guy
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I have a large propane LPG tanks for the house - runs my US Frigidaire kitchen stove and water heater. Some years ago I bought a new Weber gas bbq in the US and hooked it to a Tee off the water heater line. Took the 20# line, connector and regulator off the bbq and ran a flex gas hose into the bbq. No problem. Works fine. 


Question - I have a portable fish fryer, crab cooker that runs off a 20# propane tank, with a adjustable knob on the regulator. I'd like to get rid of the need for the 20# tank by hooking it up to the bbq Tee line when needed, but when I checked into this I started to get confusing info about high vs low pressure regulators. My assumption is that the adjust knob varies the gas out pressure, and thus the flame height. Correct? If I used the main tank with an adjustable gas valve to vary the fuel, would this work, or would I have a problem with fuel because the main tank regulator pressure is too low?  It didn't seem to make any difference to the Weber bbq.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 4th, 2019 03:26 pm
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Bullshipper
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I also think you are to go as is, unless the label or manual on the fryer says its regulated for Natural Gas whose pressure is half the pressure of LP coming out of the LP regulator to the stove valve.

Last edited on Wed Mar 6th, 2019 12:30 am by Bullshipper

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 Posted: Mon Mar 4th, 2019 03:45 pm
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nice guy
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Definitely not NG.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 4th, 2019 06:05 pm
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guzzi
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You can do it but when I tried it the pressure (flame) was not high enough. But down here you can get a smaller orifice that should do the trick. Best is to ask a gas guy down here.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 4th, 2019 08:09 pm
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jsprag
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High pressure regulators are usually red in color and enables transmission of gas thru smaller diameter lines over longer distance. If one of these is used you need "secondary" or low pressure reg sized for the BTU'S of all the appliances down the line. Or a separate regulator at each appliance sized accordingly.


 The knob on your regulator regulates flow from low to high not the pressure, like the ones on your stove. You can place a regulator in line and omit the knob but it will always run on high or the limit of the BTU'S of the orifice.

Last edited on Mon Mar 4th, 2019 08:24 pm by jsprag

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 Posted: Mon Mar 4th, 2019 09:09 pm
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jsprag - Does the gas water heater or the kitchen stove have their own regulators. The bbq had one that I took off. The home tank has a regulator ?? 


 The adjustable reg must be a fixed pressure reg with a constant out pressure and a tapered needle valve that varies the orifice size to adjust the flow ?? Without the adjustment on the fish fryer, it having no other valve - it would need to have a valve for on/off, hi/low heat control. That's not the std 1/4 turn gas valve - what is it?


Is there some propane gas appliance - bbq place in GYM?

Last edited on Mon Mar 4th, 2019 09:11 pm by nice guy

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 Posted: Mon Mar 4th, 2019 09:35 pm
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dezrat57
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I did the same with my Disco....
One regulator at your main tank only, not a second one needed just like you deleted on your BarBQ


Dave

Last edited on Mon Mar 4th, 2019 09:37 pm by dezrat57

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 Posted: Mon Mar 4th, 2019 11:19 pm
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nice guy
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Update - I re-plumbed my fish fryer - straight to the wall propane where the bbq is hooked up. Even full on, it has a very low flame, useless. So the cast iron burner in it is a high pressure style. So as Guzzi says - it doesn't work and I need to get a low pressure burner to replace the old one. Good, at least I didn't buy a wrong one. But I don't understand how a smaller orifice would do the trick. I tried lighting the full flow out of the disconnected hose - lazy yellow/orange flame - not enough air mix. Maybe just enough gas for wok cooking, which is it's main use.

What is a Disco?

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 Posted: Mon Mar 4th, 2019 11:48 pm
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MaryS
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Last edited on Mon Mar 4th, 2019 11:49 pm by MaryS

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 Posted: Mon Mar 4th, 2019 11:53 pm
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jsprag
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dezrat57 is correct.


Orifices are sized by diameter and the can be used with NG or propane. In order to get the same amount of BTU from NG as LP you have to use a larger orifice for NG

Last edited on Tue Mar 5th, 2019 12:00 am by jsprag

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 Posted: Tue Mar 5th, 2019 12:33 am
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guzzi
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Call your gas guy and he can probably get you a new orifice to make it work.

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 Posted: Tue Mar 5th, 2019 12:47 am
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nice guy
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Who knew - orifices - smaller # is bigger hole. A bigger dia drill size is a smaller number orifice. So I should drill this bigger !!

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 Posted: Tue Mar 5th, 2019 12:48 am
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Gas guy - what's a gas guy here? Is he like a water guy?

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 Posted: Tue Mar 5th, 2019 01:53 pm
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guzzi
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Someone who works on gas stuff. You can try Gas Multiservicios his name is Dagoberto Rodriguez Calon is number is 222-30-21 or 224-20-47. You could also ask at the hardware store who works on gas stuff.

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 Posted: Tue Mar 5th, 2019 02:44 pm
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jsprag
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You said it is LP. Then the orifice is sized correctly. If you want to check it, find the BTU capacity of the burner and then check the chart for the size needed to get that amount of BTU's with LP.


You do not want two low pressure regulators on the same line.

Last edited on Tue Mar 5th, 2019 02:46 pm by jsprag

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 Posted: Thu Mar 7th, 2019 02:23 am
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guzzi
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Well did you get her working?

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 Posted: Thu Mar 7th, 2019 03:44 am
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Yes, I got it working, sort of. It's definitely a hi pressure setup. On low house tank pressure - not enough fuel with the small orifice. I used my smallest drill (1/16) to make the opening bigger, and it produced a higher flame, more lazy and yellow, even with no air flow restriction. The problem is that a wok cooker needs a smallish HOT spot about 4" dia in the center of the wok, so once items are cooked they can be pushed up the side out of the hot area. A low pressure burner is always a larger 6-8" dia so gets more BTU but not concentrated. So, for my purpose, any low pressure burner is not suitable. Stuck with the hi pressure 4" cast iron burner and 20# tank and hi pressure reg - that must be maybe 10 pounds. Learned a lot.  Have ordered a new cast iron burner, suppose I could solder the orifice and redrill but where to get a correct tiny # drill. And it was 12 years rusty.

Last edited on Thu Mar 7th, 2019 03:49 am by nice guy

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